Assessment Data
Dan L
CAN
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2020-11-01
filled in 34% (55 of 160)
Created: 2020-11-01 19:35
Modified: 2020-11-01 19:42
Basic data
Weight
147 lbsSubjective age
27 years oldAverage sleep duration
6 hoursDaily activity
Active Climbing experience (excluding breaks)
2.5 yearsClimbing-specific training
3 days/weekVolume of climbing-specific training
7 hours/weekClimbing outdoors
17 days/yearDevelopment predisposition
Can't say Training with coach
None Mental training/methods
None Overall workout
3 days/weekVolume of overall workout
7 hours/weekMassage or foam rolling
Sometimes Stretching
1 hours/weekAverage of 3 hardest leads ONSIGHTPrimary set
OS lead level
5.9 YDS USA Average routes length
12 mEnvironment
Rocks Climbing angle
Vertical Average of 3 hardest leads REDPOINTPrimary set
RP lead level
5.10a YDS USA Average routes length
12 mEnvironment
Rocks Climbing angle
Vertical Average of 3 hardest boulders FLASHEDPrimary set
Flash boulder level
V4 USA Environment
Rocks Climbing angle
Overhung Average of 3 hardest boulders REDPOINTEDPrimary set
RP boulder level
V5 USA Environment
Rocks Climbing angle
Vertical Strength / Power / Endurance
half crimp dead hang @ 10 seconds -> MAWPrimary set
20 mm edge
33 lbs 3 finger dead hang @ 10 seconds -> MAWFull set
15 mm edge
15 lbs minimum edge dead hang @ 4 seconds -> MEFull set
minimum edge depth
9 mm continuous dead hang @ 40 - 100 seconds -> MHTPrimary set
45 mm edge
40 seconds 3 pull-ups -> MAWFull set
3 pull-ups
25 lbs 90° bent arm hang -> MHTPrimary set
left hand - hard
2 secondsright hand - hard
2 seconds pull-ups -> MRPrimary set
pull-ups
11 dips -> MRFull set
dips
8 core flexor strength -> MHTPrimary set
90° L-hang - easy
7 seconds windshield wipers -> MRFull set
on the bar - hard
10 planks -> MHTFull set
left side plank
30 secondsright side plank
30 secondsreverse plank
30 seconds pistol squats with half foot support -> MRPrimary set
left leg
5 right leg
5 Mobility / Flexibility
To enter data edit the assessmentBalance / Coordination
To enter data edit the assessmentMental
I can get my attention back to the "here and now" and focus on the task if something distracts me.
Sometimes
I know what can distract me while climbing (noise, sun, wind, other climbers, comments, slippery foothold or hold) and I can control it.
Rarely
When I rest in the middle of a climb, I feel what happens in my muscles and I can determine the moment I should continue climbing.
Sometimes
I can control anger / sadness / frustration after a failed attempt / falling off.
Rarely
When I feel anxiety before climbing at competitions or the crag, I can control it and reduce it with my techniques, e.g. calm breathing, remembering effective trials, successes, etc.
Never
Climbing over the clip or tricky clipping causes me a sudden increase of nerves (tremor, anxiety) and a loss of flow in my climbing.
Always
I enjoy taking part in competitions or climbing outside even if I fail or send the route inefficiently.
Rarely
While climbing a project or in competitions I only think about not falling off, not losing to a rival, not being last place.
Never
I often choose routes that are difficult for me, but possible to send (does not apply to warm-up or cool down at the end of the day or injury situations).
Sometimes
I know what is important and valuable to me in climbing.
Often
I regularly check my training plan and progress with regard to increasing my climbing skills and physical capabilities.
Often
I go out of my comfort zone and fight to the end, despite high probability of falling off.
Rarely
I pay attention to the opinions of others and negative comments if I do poorly on the route or in competition.
Sometimes
I have symptoms such as: palpitations, sweaty hands, shortness of breath, dry mouth or tightness/cramps in the stomach before a competition or important/difficult move.
Always
While climbing I focus on the moves, rather than thinking of what can happen if I fall.
Rarely
I'm nervous about climbing onsight / my project / a competition route due to uncertainty of the result and possible shame.
Often
After an unsuccessful attempt I make or look for excuses for external reasons only.
Always
I use visualization before each climbing attempt.
Sometimes
I can imagine doing my climbing task using kinesthetic sense (f.eg. load on fingers, type of friction, shoulder tension, legs tension, body position, etc.).
Sometimes
I recall my best ascents and competitions and feel positive about my success.
Sometimes