Assessment Data

Dan L
country flag CAN

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Viewing measurement system:

2020-11-01

filled in 34% (55 of 160)

Created: 2020-11-01 19:35
Modified: 2020-11-01 19:42

Basic data

Weight
147 lbs
Subjective age
27 years old
Average sleep duration
6 hours
Daily activity
Active
Climbing experience (excluding breaks)
2.5 years
Climbing-specific training
3 days/week
Volume of climbing-specific training
7 hours/week
Climbing outdoors
17 days/year
Development predisposition
Can't say
Training with coach
None
Mental training/methods
None
Overall workout
3 days/week
Volume of overall workout
7 hours/week
Massage or foam rolling
Sometimes
Stretching
1 hours/week
Average of 3 hardest leads ONSIGHTPrimary set
OS lead level
5.9 YDS USA
Average routes length
12 m
Environment
Rocks
Climbing angle
Vertical
Average of 3 hardest leads REDPOINTPrimary set
RP lead level
5.10a YDS USA
Average routes length
12 m
Environment
Rocks
Climbing angle
Vertical
Average of 3 hardest boulders FLASHEDPrimary set
Flash boulder level
V4 USA
Environment
Rocks
Climbing angle
Overhung
Average of 3 hardest boulders REDPOINTEDPrimary set
RP boulder level
V5 USA
Environment
Rocks
Climbing angle
Vertical

Strength / Power / Endurance

strength_fingers half crimp dead hang @ 10 seconds -> MAWPrimary set
20 mm edge
33 lbs
strength_fingers 3 finger dead hang @ 10 seconds -> MAWFull set
15 mm edge
15 lbs
strength_fingers minimum edge dead hang @ 4 seconds -> MEFull set
minimum edge depth
9 mm
strength_endurance_fingers continuous dead hang @ 40 - 100 seconds -> MHTPrimary set
45 mm edge
40 seconds
strength_arms 3 pull-ups -> MAWFull set
3 pull-ups
25 lbs
strength_endurance_arms 90° bent arm hang -> MHTPrimary set
left hand - hard
2 seconds
right hand - hard
2 seconds
strength_endurance_arms pull-ups -> MRPrimary set
pull-ups
11
strength_endurance_arms dips -> MRFull set
dips
8
strength_core core flexor strength -> MHTPrimary set
90° L-hang - easy
7 seconds
strength_endurance_core windshield wipers -> MRFull set
on the bar - hard
10
endurance_core planks -> MHTFull set
left side plank
30 seconds
right side plank
30 seconds
reverse plank
30 seconds
strength_endurance_legs pistol squats with half foot support -> MRPrimary set
left leg
5
right leg
5

Mobility / Flexibility

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Balance / Coordination

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Mental

I can get my attention back to the "here and now" and focus on the task if something distracts me.
Sometimes
I know what can distract me while climbing (noise, sun, wind, other climbers, comments, slippery foothold or hold) and I can control it.
Rarely
When I rest in the middle of a climb, I feel what happens in my muscles and I can determine the moment I should continue climbing.
Sometimes
I can control anger / sadness / frustration after a failed attempt / falling off.
Rarely
When I feel anxiety before climbing at competitions or the crag, I can control it and reduce it with my techniques, e.g. calm breathing, remembering effective trials, successes, etc.
Never
Climbing over the clip or tricky clipping causes me a sudden increase of nerves (tremor, anxiety) and a loss of flow in my climbing.
Always
I enjoy taking part in competitions or climbing outside even if I fail or send the route inefficiently.
Rarely
While climbing a project or in competitions I only think about not falling off, not losing to a rival, not being last place.
Never
I often choose routes that are difficult for me, but possible to send (does not apply to warm-up or cool down at the end of the day or injury situations).
Sometimes
I know what is important and valuable to me in climbing.
Often
I regularly check my training plan and progress with regard to increasing my climbing skills and physical capabilities.
Often
I go out of my comfort zone and fight to the end, despite high probability of falling off.
Rarely
I pay attention to the opinions of others and negative comments if I do poorly on the route or in competition.
Sometimes
I have symptoms such as: palpitations, sweaty hands, shortness of breath, dry mouth or tightness/cramps in the stomach before a competition or important/difficult move.
Always
While climbing I focus on the moves, rather than thinking of what can happen if I fall.
Rarely
I'm nervous about climbing onsight / my project / a competition route due to uncertainty of the result and possible shame.
Often
After an unsuccessful attempt I make or look for excuses for external reasons only.
Always
I use visualization before each climbing attempt.
Sometimes
I can imagine doing my climbing task using kinesthetic sense (f.eg. load on fingers, type of friction, shoulder tension, legs tension, body position, etc.).
Sometimes
I recall my best ascents and competitions and feel positive about my success.
Sometimes