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Created: 2023-04-28 18:48
Modified: 2023-04-28 19:08
Subjective age18 years old
Average sleep duration7 hours
Training-oriented nutritionMost of the meals
Climbing experience (excluding breaks)2 years
Climbing-specific training4 days/week
Volume of climbing-specific training5 hours/week
Climbing outdoors10 days/year
Training with coachRegular
Mental training/methodsOnly when needed
Overall workout6 days/week
Volume of overall workout10 hours/week
Massage or foam rollingOnly when needed
Average of 3 hardest leads ONSIGHTPrimary set
OS lead level5.11b YDS USA
Average routes length50 ft
Average of 3 hardest leads REDPOINTPrimary set
RP lead level5.12b YDS USA
Average routes length50 ft
Climbing angleHeavy overhung / Roof
Average of 3 hardest boulders FLASHEDPrimary set
Flash boulder levelV6 USA
Average of 3 hardest boulders REDPOINTEDPrimary set
RP boulder levelV8 USA
Climbing angleHeavy overhung / Roof
Strength / Power / Endurance
half crimp dead hang @ 10 seconds -> MAWPrimary set
45 mm edge150 lbs
20 mm edge80 lbs
15 mm edge50 lbs
10 mm edge10 lbs
3 finger dead hang @ 10 seconds -> MAWFull set
45 mm edge30 lbs
20 mm edge20 lbs
15 mm edge10 lbs
10 mm edge0 lbs
minimum edge dead hang @ 4 seconds -> MEFull set
minimum edge depth6 mm
continuous dead hang @ 40 - 100 seconds -> MHTPrimary set
45 mm edge100 seconds
20 mm edge67 seconds
15 mm edge40 seconds
7/3 repeaters dead hangs @ >160 seconds -> MRPrimary set
45 mm edge160 seconds
20 mm edge90 seconds
15 mm edge50 seconds
90° lock-off @ 10 seconds -> MAWPrimary set
both hands - easy50 lbs
left hand - hard10 lbs
right hand - hard0 lbs
3 pull-ups -> MAWFull set
3 pull-ups100 lbs
campus power slap -> MaxDPrimary set
left arm40 inches
right arm42 inches
90° bent arm hang -> MHTPrimary set
both hands - easy60 seconds
left hand - hard20 seconds
right hand - hard15 seconds
90° dip hold -> MHTFull set
90° dip hold30 seconds
pull-ups -> MRPrimary set
dips -> MRFull set
core flexor strength -> MHTPrimary set
90° L-hang - easy10 seconds
45° front lever - hard4 seconds
modified L-sit -> MHTPrimary set
knees bent - easy80 seconds
straight legs - hard10 seconds
tummy-to-table two leg hold -> MHTPrimary set
tummy-to-table two leg hold30 seconds
windshield wipers -> MRFull set
on the floor - easy14
on the bar - hard4
tummy-to-table leg raises -> MRFull set
tummy-to-table leg raises20
planks -> MHTFull set
left side plank85 seconds
right side plank97 seconds
reverse plank50 seconds
side single leg bridge -> MHTFull set
left leg40 seconds
right leg37 seconds
pistol squats with half foot support -> MRPrimary set
wall sit -> MHTFull set
wall sit189 seconds
burpees @ 90 seconds -> MRPrimary set
Mobility / Flexibility
• bends down -> MinDPrimary set
forward bend down to the toes0 inches
left side bend down24 inches
right side bend down25 inches
• hip rotation -> MaxDPrimary set
knees span30 inches
heels span37 inches
• side split -> MaxDPrimary set
side split40 inches
• 90° wall angel -> MinDPrimary set
up wall angel0 inches
down wall angel0 inches
• shoulder reach behind -> MinDPrimary set
left arm up, right arm down0 inches
right arm up, left arm down0 inches
• trunk rotation -> MaxDPrimary set
trunk rotated the left20 inches
trunk rotated the right23 inches
• leg raise -> MaxDPrimary set
left leg raise - straight knee37 inches
right leg raise - straight knee40 inches
left leg raise - bend knee28 inches
right leg raise - bend knee30 inches
Balance / Coordination
• reaching balance -> MaxDPrimary set
left arm reach40 inches
right arm reach42 inches
• eyes closed one leg stand -> MHTPrimary set
eyes closed one leg stand14 seconds
When I make a mistake in my movements while climbing, it doesn't distract me, I make do and push on.
I know how to manage my focus while climbing.
I can get my attention back to the "here and now" and focus on the task if something distracts me.
I can cut myself off from everyday problems and unpleasant situations that have happened before to focus on climbing with a clear head.
On competition day or before pulling onto rock I focus only on my task, on movement, and on what helps me to be focused and confident.
I know what can distract me while climbing (noise, sun, wind, other climbers, comments, slippery foothold or hold) and I can control it.
After falling off I can refocus for another attempt.
My mind races before I pull on and during climbing or I talk to myself too much.
I pay attention to my emotions before, during, and after climbing.
When I rest in the middle of a climb, I feel what happens in my muscles and I can determine the moment I should continue climbing.
I can control anger / sadness / frustration after a failed attempt / falling off.
When I feel anxiety before climbing at competitions or the crag, I can control it and reduce it with my techniques, e.g. calm breathing, remembering effective trials, successes, etc.
I become unnecessarily tense/angry/uptight before difficult movements because of nervousness.
Before pulling onto a difficult route or a boulder I can put myself into optimal arousal for climbing.
I know what affects my level of nervousness before and during climbing (f.ex. the uncertainty of movement, own or environmental pressure, grade of the route, rank of the competition, etc.).
Climbing over the clip or tricky clipping causes me a sudden increase of nerves (tremor, anxiety) and a loss of flow in my climbing.
I'm aware of what I say to myself inside my head before, during, and after climbing.
My mind races when I approach a difficult spot or a crux.
I can stay positive even after an unsuccessful start in a competition or a bad day at the crag and make constructive conclusions.
I'm aware of my thoughts about any long standing projects before I approach them, I manage these thoughts and how they affect my attitude.
I have a plan for what I say to myself while climbing.
When I say positive things to myself I feel calmer.
I can successfully motivate myself by encouraging myself inside my head or to myself.
I use my favorite "key/anchor" words f. ex. I can do it, hold it, you are strong, breathe now!
When I'm climbing, I expect that I will give my best and send a route or a boulder.
I enjoy taking part in competitions or climbing outside even if I fail or send the route inefficiently.
Difficult places on the route or environmental adversities are a problem for me and I have difficulties finding solutions.
Skills development is crucial or important in my climbing and I have an overall plan for my development.
While climbing a project or in competitions I only think about not falling off, not losing to a rival, not being last place.
I often choose routes that are difficult for me, but possible to send (does not apply to warm-up or cool down at the end of the day or injury situations).
Failures in climbing are acceptable to me.
I trust my training plan and I believe that the goals I’ve chosen are appropriate.
I know what my goals for the day are when I go into training or show up at the crag.
I know what is important and valuable to me in climbing.
Before the start of the climbing season I set a main climbing goal.
I know what steps led me to achieve my climbing goal.
I have a training plan for each season.
I regularly check my training plan and progress with regard to increasing my climbing skills and physical capabilities.
After the end of the season I take stock of how I performed on my climbing goals.
I get nervous and I can't control it before climbing a new route, even below my limit.
I go out of my comfort zone and fight to the end, despite high probability of falling off.
I decide to make difficult moves even when I'm high above the quickdraw or high on a boulder.
I pay attention to the opinions of others and negative comments if I do poorly on the route or in competition.
I have symptoms such as: palpitations, sweaty hands, shortness of breath, dry mouth or tightness/cramps in the stomach before a competition or important/difficult move.
When the planned sequence doesn’t work or it becomes difficult I tell my belayer to take.
While climbing I focus on the moves, rather than thinking of what can happen if I fall.
During climbing I focus on whether the equipment works fine, instead of climbing.
I am terrified by the fact that I may lose control over my climbing (slipping out from a foot hold, wrong sequence, extreme nervousness, etc.).
My self-confidence is stable regardless of bad results at competitions or failure on rock.
I'm nervous about climbing onsight / my project / a competition route due to uncertainty of the result and possible shame.
I try new routes and boulders that require skills I don't have in order to learn something, even if it ends with falling off and me looking bad to other climbers.
I believe in my climbing capabilities and that I will achieve everything I plan.
I make difficult and surprising moves that I've never done before at the limit of my abilities.
When climbing I am sure of my physical, technical, and mental preparation.
When climbing RedPoint, I am sure that I will give 100% to accomplish each of the trained sequences.
After an unsuccessful attempt I make or look for excuses for external reasons only.
I use visualization before each climbing attempt.
I can imagine doing my climbing task using kinesthetic sense (f.eg. load on fingers, type of friction, shoulder tension, legs tension, body position, etc.).
I recall my best ascents and competitions and feel positive about my success.
I have difficulty forming a vivid, dynamic, colorful, and multi-sensory image of myself climbing (sense of sight, hearing, etc.).
When I choose a climbing goal I train regularly by imagining the send before my trip to the crag.
I use visualization to bring about the right emotional state, relax my body, and focus before competition or important real rock projects during climbing.
I watch better climbers than myself during live competitions or in movies to improve my climbing technique.
I can imagine the entire sequence of moves or sequences in the most important places, including foot holds and holds, in their actual order.