Human as a System
Once upon the time I heard some smart words “Every system works as its the weakest element”.
Everything we do require from human being a certain amount of abilities and preparation to achieve particular skills. In climbing, due to complexity, it is quite tough to precisely select the weaknesses.
Human physic and mental abilities are the system. If we could identify even one weakness of this system we can get better. In my opinion it was worth it - to launch such project for such simple reason.
The tests are designed to analyze the development of traits involved in sport climbing and bouldering in combination with respiratory difficulty can be overcome. This tool guides the climber through a set of tests and enables anonymous comparison of results with other climbers to analyze and assess weaknesses. In order to bring the results closer to physical conditions, the results can be narrowed down to the user's parameters.
We see following climbing relevant human abilities:
Physical abilities
Muscle operation type
- Aerobic
- Endurance (muscle fibers Type 1 - Aerobic <Fatty Acids + Oxygen>)
- Anaerobic
- Strength endurance (muscle fibers Type 2A - Anaerobic Lactic <Glycogen + CP>)
- Power endurance (muscle fibers Type 2A - Anaerobic Lactic <Glycogen + CP>)
- Strength (muscle fibers Type 2B - Anaerobic Alactic <ATP + CP>)
- Power (muscle fibers Type 2B - Anaerobic Alactic <ATP + CP>)
Muscle contraction type
- Isotonic (length change of a muscle)
- Concentric
- Eccentric
- Isometric (static, no change in length of a muscle)
Muscle length operation
- Mobility (active)
- Flexibility (passive)
Nervous sensitivity under and without tension
- Balance control
- Movement coordination (multi-limb motion control)
- Feeling sensitivity
- Precision force control
Eyes operation
- View angle and perceptivity
- Colors and shape recognition
Mental abilities
- Fear
- Focus
- Distraction
- Self-awareness
- Self-confidence
- Self-esteem
- Self-control
- Imagination
- Achievement motivation and mindset
- Goals and planning
- Memory
- Shortterm - holds positions for use as f.ex steps
- Longterm - remembering the whole route in details
Technical and Strategy
- Movement patterns
- Balance and body positions
- Climbing pace
- Technical moves (Heel or Toes hooks, Knee drops, foot wedges, underclings, etc)
- Rest places