Assessment Data

Sebastiaan Dorjee
country flag NLD

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2023-07-30

well done! filled in 100% (160 of 160)

Created: 2023-07-30 14:29
Modified: 2023-07-30 15:48

Basic data

Weight
60 kg
Subjective age
20 years old
Average sleep duration
8 hours
Daily activity
Active
Training-oriented nutrition
Most of the meals
Climbing experience (excluding breaks)
4 years
Climbing-specific training
5 days/week
Volume of climbing-specific training
10 hours/week
Climbing outdoors
100 days/year
Development predisposition
Strength
Training with coach
None
Mental training/methods
None
Overall workout
1 days/week
Volume of overall workout
1 hours/week
Massage or foam rolling
Only when needed
Stretching
1 hours/week
Average of 3 hardest leads ONSIGHTPrimary set
OS lead level
7b+ French
Average routes length
20 m
Environment
Rocks
Climbing angle
Overhung
Average of 3 hardest leads REDPOINTPrimary set
RP lead level
8a+ French
Average routes length
20 m
Environment
Rocks
Climbing angle
Overhung
Average of 3 hardest boulders FLASHEDPrimary set
Flash boulder level
7B French Font
Environment
Gym
Climbing angle
Overhung
Average of 3 hardest boulders REDPOINTEDPrimary set
RP boulder level
7C French Font
Environment
Gym
Climbing angle
Overhung

Strength / Power / Endurance

strength_fingers half crimp dead hang @ 10 seconds -> MAWPrimary set
45 mm edge
86 kg
20 mm edge
65 kg
15 mm edge
52.5 kg
10 mm edge
45 kg
strength_fingers 3 finger dead hang @ 10 seconds -> MAWFull set
45 mm edge
75 kg
20 mm edge
60 kg
15 mm edge
52 kg
10 mm edge
47 kg
strength_fingers minimum edge dead hang @ 4 seconds -> MEFull set
minimum edge depth
4 mm
strength_endurance_fingers continuous dead hang @ 40 - 100 seconds -> MHTPrimary set
45 mm edge
100 seconds
20 mm edge
72 seconds
15 mm edge
54 seconds
endurance_fingers 7/3 repeaters dead hangs @ >160 seconds -> MRPrimary set
45 mm edge
400 seconds
20 mm edge
220 seconds
15 mm edge
190 seconds
strength_arms 90° lock-off @ 10 seconds -> MAWPrimary set
both hands - easy
75 kg
left hand - hard
15 kg
right hand - hard
15 kg
strength_arms 3 pull-ups -> MAWFull set
3 pull-ups
60 kg
power_arms campus power slap -> MaxDPrimary set
left arm
114 cm
right arm
110 cm
strength_endurance_arms 90° bent arm hang -> MHTPrimary set
both hands - easy
55 seconds
left hand - hard
36 seconds
right hand - hard
33 seconds
strength_endurance_arms 90° dip hold -> MHTFull set
90° dip hold
42 seconds
strength_endurance_arms pull-ups -> MRPrimary set
pull-ups
23
strength_endurance_arms dips -> MRFull set
dips
24
strength_core core flexor strength -> MHTPrimary set
90° L-hang - easy
80 seconds
45° front lever - hard
35 seconds
strength_endurance_core modified L-sit -> MHTPrimary set
knees bent - easy
100 seconds
straight legs - hard
55 seconds
strength_endurance_core tummy-to-table two leg hold -> MHTPrimary set
tummy-to-table two leg hold
90 seconds
strength_endurance_core windshield wipers -> MRFull set
on the floor - easy
60
on the bar - hard
24
strength_endurance_core tummy-to-table leg raises -> MRFull set
tummy-to-table leg raises
32
endurance_core planks -> MHTFull set
left side plank
80 seconds
right side plank
80 seconds
reverse plank
120 seconds
strength_endurance_legs side single leg bridge -> MHTFull set
left leg
94 seconds
right leg
90 seconds
strength_endurance_legs pistol squats with half foot support -> MRPrimary set
left leg
16
right leg
16
endurance_legs wall sit -> MHTFull set
wall sit
100 seconds
power_endurance_overall burpees @ 90 seconds -> MRPrimary set
burpees
56

Mobility / Flexibility

•   bends down -> MinDPrimary set
forward bend down to the toes
15 cm
left side bend down
44 cm
right side bend down
43 cm
•   hip rotation -> MaxDPrimary set
knees span
94 cm
heels span
105 cm
•   side split -> MaxDPrimary set
side split
163 cm
•   90° wall angel -> MinDPrimary set
up wall angel
1 cm
down wall angel
0 cm
•   shoulder reach behind -> MinDPrimary set
left arm up, right arm down
12 cm
right arm up, left arm down
6 cm
•   trunk rotation -> MaxDPrimary set
trunk rotated the left
85 cm
trunk rotated the right
84 cm
•   leg raise -> MaxDPrimary set
left leg raise - straight knee
151 cm
right leg raise - straight knee
150 cm
left leg raise - bend knee
103 cm
right leg raise - bend knee
102 cm

Balance / Coordination

•   modified SEBT -> MaxDPrimary set
Right leg reach - Left leg stand
lateral:
76 cm
anterolateral:
72 cm
anteromedial:
106 cm
medial:
99 cm
posteromedial:
113 cm
posterolateral:
100 cm
Left leg reach - Right leg stand
medial:
100 cm
anteromedial:
104 cm
anterolateral:
70 cm
lateral:
70 cm
posterolateral:
98 cm
posteromedial:
113 cm
•   reaching balance -> MaxDPrimary set
left arm reach
114 cm
right arm reach
112 cm
•   eyes closed one leg stand -> MHTPrimary set
eyes closed one leg stand
23 seconds

Mental

When I make a mistake in my movements while climbing, it doesn't distract me, I make do and push on.
Sometimes
I know how to manage my focus while climbing.
Often
I can get my attention back to the "here and now" and focus on the task if something distracts me.
Sometimes
I can cut myself off from everyday problems and unpleasant situations that have happened before to focus on climbing with a clear head.
Often
On competition day or before pulling onto rock I focus only on my task, on movement, and on what helps me to be focused and confident.
Often
I know what can distract me while climbing (noise, sun, wind, other climbers, comments, slippery foothold or hold) and I can control it.
Often
After falling off I can refocus for another attempt.
Often
My mind races before I pull on and during climbing or I talk to myself too much.
Rarely
I pay attention to my emotions before, during, and after climbing.
Always
When I rest in the middle of a climb, I feel what happens in my muscles and I can determine the moment I should continue climbing.
Often
I can control anger / sadness / frustration after a failed attempt / falling off.
Often
When I feel anxiety before climbing at competitions or the crag, I can control it and reduce it with my techniques, e.g. calm breathing, remembering effective trials, successes, etc.
Often
I become unnecessarily tense/angry/uptight before difficult movements because of nervousness.
Rarely
Before pulling onto a difficult route or a boulder I can put myself into optimal arousal for climbing.
Often
I know what affects my level of nervousness before and during climbing (f.ex. the uncertainty of movement, own or environmental pressure, grade of the route, rank of the competition, etc.).
Often
Climbing over the clip or tricky clipping causes me a sudden increase of nerves (tremor, anxiety) and a loss of flow in my climbing.
Sometimes
I'm aware of what I say to myself inside my head before, during, and after climbing.
Often
My mind races when I approach a difficult spot or a crux.
Sometimes
I can stay positive even after an unsuccessful start in a competition or a bad day at the crag and make constructive conclusions.
Often
I'm aware of my thoughts about any long standing projects before I approach them, I manage these thoughts and how they affect my attitude.
Often
I have a plan for what I say to myself while climbing.
Rarely
When I say positive things to myself I feel calmer.
Often
I can successfully motivate myself by encouraging myself inside my head or to myself.
Often
I use my favorite "key/anchor" words f. ex. I can do it, hold it, you are strong, breathe now!
Often
When I'm climbing, I expect that I will give my best and send a route or a boulder.
Often
I enjoy taking part in competitions or climbing outside even if I fail or send the route inefficiently.
Often
Difficult places on the route or environmental adversities are a problem for me and I have difficulties finding solutions.
Sometimes
Skills development is crucial or important in my climbing and I have an overall plan for my development.
Often
While climbing a project or in competitions I only think about not falling off, not losing to a rival, not being last place.
Never
I often choose routes that are difficult for me, but possible to send (does not apply to warm-up or cool down at the end of the day or injury situations).
Always
I can motivate myself to train hard even if I don't see immediate progress.
Often
Failures in climbing are acceptable to me.
Always
I trust my training plan and I believe that the goals I’ve chosen are appropriate.
Often
I know what my goals for the day are when I go into training or show up at the crag.
Often
I know what is important and valuable to me in climbing.
Always
Before the start of the climbing season I set a main climbing goal.
Always
I know what steps led me to achieve my climbing goal.
Always
I have a training plan for each season.
Always
I regularly check my training plan and progress with regard to increasing my climbing skills and physical capabilities.
Often
After the end of the season I take stock of how I performed on my climbing goals.
Always
I get nervous and I can't control it before climbing a new route, even below my limit.
Sometimes
I go out of my comfort zone and fight to the end, despite high probability of falling off.
Always
I decide to make difficult moves even when I'm high above the quickdraw or high on a boulder.
Sometimes
I pay attention to the opinions of others and negative comments if I do poorly on the route or in competition.
Sometimes
I have symptoms such as: palpitations, sweaty hands, shortness of breath, dry mouth or tightness/cramps in the stomach before a competition or important/difficult move.
Sometimes
When the planned sequence doesn’t work or it becomes difficult I tell my belayer to take.
Sometimes
While climbing I focus on the moves, rather than thinking of what can happen if I fall.
Often
During climbing I focus on whether the equipment works fine, instead of climbing.
Rarely
I am terrified by the fact that I may lose control over my climbing (slipping out from a foot hold, wrong sequence, extreme nervousness, etc.).
Rarely
My self-confidence is stable regardless of bad results at competitions or failure on rock.
Often
I'm nervous about climbing onsight / my project / a competition route due to uncertainty of the result and possible shame.
Sometimes
I try new routes and boulders that require skills I don't have in order to learn something, even if it ends with falling off and me looking bad to other climbers.
Always
I believe in my climbing capabilities and that I will achieve everything I plan.
Often
I make difficult and surprising moves that I've never done before at the limit of my abilities.
Often
When climbing I am sure of my physical, technical, and mental preparation.
Often
When climbing RedPoint, I am sure that I will give 100% to accomplish each of the trained sequences.
Always
After an unsuccessful attempt I make or look for excuses for external reasons only.
Never
I use visualization before each climbing attempt.
Sometimes
I can imagine doing my climbing task using kinesthetic sense (f.eg. load on fingers, type of friction, shoulder tension, legs tension, body position, etc.).
Often
I recall my best ascents and competitions and feel positive about my success.
Often
I have difficulty forming a vivid, dynamic, colorful, and multi-sensory image of myself climbing (sense of sight, hearing, etc.).
Rarely
When I choose a climbing goal I train regularly by imagining the send before my trip to the crag.
Often
I use visualization to bring about the right emotional state, relax my body, and focus before competition or important real rock projects during climbing.
Often
I watch better climbers than myself during live competitions or in movies to improve my climbing technique.
Often
I can imagine the entire sequence of moves or sequences in the most important places, including foot holds and holds, in their actual order.
Often