3 finger dead hang @ 10 seconds -> MAW

dead hang / 3 fingers / open crimp @ 10 seconds -> maximum added weight

Equipment needed: hangboard, harness, weight, stopwatch

Goal and measurement

The goal is to test the strength of your 3 finger open crimp grip by recording the maximum added weight to your waist held for 10 seconds. The result you record is the amount of added weight.


Hold the rung with arms shoulder-width apart and a 3 finger open crimp grip. Your legs will hang but should not swing.


Choose the minimum edge depth that lets you add weight:
45 mm edge / 20 mm edge / 15 mm edge / 10 mm edge
The usual depth you use for strength training with added weight is the best choice.
Finding the maximum load should be done in 2-4 test attempts separated by 3 - 5 min of active rests. After the rest you should feel reasonably recovered.
It is recommended to perform the attempts with an increasing load, not decreasing. The added weight from the last attempt where the edge was held for the given time should be recorded as the result of the test.