half crimp dead hang @ 10 seconds -> MAW
dead hang / 4 fingers / half crimp @ 10 seconds -> maximum added weightEquipment needed: hangboard, harness, weight, stopwatch
Goal and measurementThe goal is to test the strength of your 4 finger half crimp grip by recording the maximum added weight to your waist held for 10 seconds. The result you record is the amount of added weight.
PositionHold the rung with arms shoulder-width apart and a 4 finger half crimp grip. Your legs will hang but should not swing.
ProcedureChoose the minimum edge depth that lets you add weight:
45 mm edge / 20 mm edge / 15 mm edge / 10 mm edgeThe usual depth you use for strength training with added weight is the best choice.
Finding the maximum load should be done in 2-4 test attempts separated by 3 - 5 min of active rests. After the rest you should feel reasonably recovered.
It is recommended to perform the attempts with an increasing load, not decreasing. The added weight from the last attempt where the edge was held for the given time should be recorded as the result of the test.